I’m new to weaving so I’m not exactly sure what she means, but I think she’s saying that after you’ve measured your warp and made your cross you shouldn’t second guess yourself by fiddling with individual warp threads. Easier said than done.
It took a lot of time and patient re-threading of bits I’d got wrong but I have now finished warping my table loom and have woven half a dozen picks. So far, so good.
Louise French has put together some fantastic instructions on warping the loom back to front. From what I’ve seen on my travels so far they’re the best instructions around. I learned to warp back to front at the class I took at the Handweavers and Spinners Guild and I wanted to stick with a familiar approach. There were two constraints – a lack of space between the warp beam and the castle and heddles that could not be moved over the shafts. Oh, and the heddles are attached to both the front and back of each shaft frame.
My home made reed hook worked brilliantly. It’s made of brass shim and was a joint effort by me and my beloved. The reed on this loom is 16dpi I believe and it’s quite fine to dent. I would have struggled without the reed hook.
One technique taught to us in class was to use bows to attach the warp to the cloth beam. I wondered at the time if that was the only recommended approach so I consulted my books. I ended up using the knots shown in the picture below, which seemed less bulky and easier to tension.
It wasn’t easy but I got there in the end and now I’m almost ready to run a line of hemstitching across what will, hopefully, be a lovely scarf for my mother in law for Christmas.