Day 2 of Pattern Making

Day 2 of my pattern making class was slightly less frantic  than the previous week but still packed with information. I worked really hard to complete my skirt in the week between classes and was surprised to discover that some class participants hadn’t finished theirs as they didn’t have the skills to make a vent or sew on a waistband. Others just couldn’t get the job done in time, something I completely understand. Making a skirt in a week is a big ask if you’re not a professional and  have a full time job doing something else.

I made my skirt up in a lightweight synthetic fabric from Spotlight’s remnant bin. It turned out OK and it was very satisfying to find it fit well, was the right length and didn’t need to be altered during the construction process, other than resewing the darts to widen them a little. I think that was more down to my sewing than a problem with the pattern.

I wore my new skirt to a family event on the weekend and was happy with how it felt, though I did notice that a small fold formed just below the waistband. I’ll come back to the fix for that, later.

Bodice Block

In class two we made our own pants and bodice blocks. The bodice block is a cardboard representation of our torso and is not a pattern so our tutor showed us how to use it to make a pattern. It may not be evident from the photo, but the dart markings would run onto each other in a very messy way if you tried to sew them as indicated on the block. You’d also end up with a very pointy bust point. Think Madonna in her John Paul Gaultier corset, but uglier.

Made up, the bodice pattern would make a tight fitting garment and we were told to add an open ended zipper to get in and out of it, and to make facings so the armhole and neck wouldn’t stretch. I’m curious about how I would use this block to make a princess-style bodice. Seems the Burda site has a tutorial. Must read it in detail.

I’m really sorry we didn’t get time to draft a sleeve block. That would have been useful, but our tutor told us that would take another day to learn.

I feel I am now armed with enough knowledge to alter commercial patterns and get back to dress-making.

As part of this journey I have looked into several books about pattern alteration. The one I bought is an OK basic reference and would be more than adequate for a relatively ‘normal’ shaped beginner, but it did not cover my particular alteration requirement, the one which caused a little fold to form under the waistband of my skirt. The diagnosis for that fitting problem is that I have a slightly rounded tummy, something that happens to many of us as we age and spend too much time inside sewing. I’m trying to address that with diet, but am making slow progress, so a pattern alteration is needed solve the problem in the immediate term.

Fast Fit by Sandra Betzina covered the necessary alteration, plus just about every other and it’s the book I’d recommend. It takes a body part by body part approach, which is very helpful, particularly if you are dressmaking for others and need to know wide range of variations. Thick calves, big bottom, small bottom, sloping shoulders, they’re all there, with clear instructions on how to cater for each, along with instructions on which to tackle first.

Armed with all this new knowledge, I’m keen to do more and learn more. Just for fun, I’d like to make a middy blouse. It will be the perfect garment for when we launch the new canoe.

New Book: Amish Abstractions

Amish Abstractions

This book was a impulse purchase, but a modest one at less then $30. I’d recommend buying it for the pleasure of looking at the quilts in the collection and drawing inspiration from them.

Amish Abstractions: Quilts from the Collection of Faith and Stephen Brown arrived last night and surprisingly my beloved was the one who was busting to open it up and take a look, though he did give me the honour of ripping into the shrink wrap (very carefully.)

This book is a beauty. It’s published by Pomegranate, the quality of the printing is great and the photos of the quilts are truly wonderful. It was published as an exhibition catalogue so there aren’t any patterns but it’s still a lovely book to own.

I must, must, must put some time aside for a quilt or two made in unprinted fabric. In general I find them more visually arresting than those made with printed fabrics.

I borrowed a book from the library recently that had Amish inspired quilt designs and that book had a pattern for a bear paw block quilt set on point that was dynamic and beautiful and yet at the same time plain. It’s on my ever-growing quilt project list but is a long way down that list at this stage.

New Book: Jelly Roll Quilts

After 3 weeks of waiting, not very patiently at all, Pam & Nicky Lintott’s Jelly Roll Quilts has finally arrived.

I’d heard good things about his book and from my first look through it, I don’t think I’m going to be disappointed.

I’m very keen to try the braided quilt that features on the cover of this book, but I’m going to need some supplies first. For some reason that I don’t fully understand, jelly rolls seem to be very expensive in this country. Maybe it’s just that I haven’t found a reasonably priced supplier yet.

Until I do find a reasonably priced local supplier, I’ll most likely buy from a US online retailer. Even with postage costs I’ll probably win on that one and there is so much more of everything to choose from in the US.

The book also recommends the Omnigrid 98 and 96 rulers which are both quarter square triangle rulers but with the lines going in different directions, parallel to the longest edge in one case and perpendicular to the longest edge in the other.

My Quilt Book Wish List

Two of the books in my Quilting Library

I posted a question on Quilting Board recently and asked for people’s recommendations on what books I need to add to my quilting library. I was particularly interested in hearing which books people kept on coming back to.

When I posted my question I forgot to mention that I already have Stash Buster Quilts by Lynn Edwards. I have yet to review that here and I haven’t made anything from it yet but I don’t regret buying it. Something I like is that each pattern is shown made up in two different colourways so you can see, for example the difference between using a two colour palette and a full-on scrappy colour selection.

Quilters Complete Guide by Fons & Porter was a title that was recommended a lot and I can see why having recently borrowed it from the library.

Based on the recommendations and a little of my own research, I’m putting these books on my wish list.

The It’s Okay If You Sit On My Quilt Book – because many people seemed to really like it

Layer Cake, Jelly Roll & Charm Quilts – which I already kind of wanted

Guide To Machine Quilting by Gaudynski – to get over my fear of machine quilting large quilts

The Better Homes & Gardens Complete Guide to quilting was also highly recommended. Read my review of that book which I agree is excellent.